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| Some stats | | releases | 1,766 | | last 24h | +750 | | online | 404.1 GB | | library | 1.2 TB | | members | 0 | | updated | 2026-10-04 23:30 |
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| | SNES 2CHIP 50/60 Hz Switchless Mod + LED Mod |
| Device | Super Nintendo |
| Difficulty | Very difficult |
| Time | 1 - 2 hours |
| Steps | 19 |
This guide is by Krisander 1998 on iFixit and is licensed under Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 3.0. ByteRot mirrors it for non-commercial preservation: formatting changed and photos resized for old browsers; full-size photos and the text are on the FTP in /DOCS/REPAIR. Original guide >>
This guide shows you how to mod your super nintendo region free without a switch and with new LED lights.
btw. This mod doesn't work on 1 Chip SNES or SNES Mini, only works on original 2 Chip SNES. Check for text on the board to confirm your model.
Tools: Gamebit 4.5mm; Phillips #2 Screwdriver; Tweezers; Double-Sided Tape; Desoldering Pump; Metal Spudger; Universal Programmer; Flush Cutter; Soldering Iron; Desoldering Braid
Parts: Wire Wrapping Wire; Heat Shrink Tubing Assortment; Resistor 220 Ohm; 5 mm Through-Hole 3Pin Led Light, Red-Green Dual Color |
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| Step 1 | ![[step 1 photo]](98721/step01-1.jpg) Remove the two Phillips two 11.6mm screws that connect the front shield to the motherboard.
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| Step 2 | ![[step 2 photo]](98721/step02-1.jpg) Lift the front shield straight up to remove it from the motherboard.
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| Step 3 | ![[step 3 photo]](98721/step03-1.jpg) Remove the two silver 15.6 mm Phillips #2 screws on either side of the 62 pin connector.
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| Step 4 | ![[step 4 photo]](98721/step04-1.jpg) Remove the 11.8 mm Phillips #2 screw near the rear of the SNES.
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| Step 5 | ![[step 5 photo]](98721/step05-1.jpg) Lift the motherboard straight up to remove it.
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| Step 6 :: The Two Chips | ![[step 6 photo]](98721/step06-1.jpg) The Two Chips that you need on your Super Nintendo NOTE: This mod only works on original Super Nintendo with 2 Chips, this mod doesn't work on the 1 Chip Snes.
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| Step 7 :: The Lockout Chip |
![[step 7 photo]](98721/step07-2.jpg) Remove the Lock Out chip (use the solder gun (https://www.ifixit.com/en-ca/products/desoldering-pump)) REMINDER: After removing the lock out chip there will probably be leftover of solder where the chip used to be so try to remove the soldier as good as you can NOTE: To remove the solder leftover, you can use the soldering iron and solder wick.
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| Step 8 :: PPU 2 |
![[step 8 photo]](98721/step08-2.jpg) Lift up the PPU2 Pin 30 from the Motherboard
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| Step 9 :: PPU 1 |
![[step 9 photo]](98721/step09-2.jpg) Now lift up Pin 24 on PPU 1
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| Step 10 :: Wire Time | ![[step 10 photo]](98721/step10-1.jpg) Wire the lifted pins (PPU 2 Pin 30 & PPU1 Pin 24) together NOTE: You need to use a Soldering Iron to wire the pins together NOTE: You can also use tape to hold the wires down to the motherboard
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| Step 11 :: Program | ![[step 11 photo]](98721/step11-1.jpg) Now you have to put the PIC16F630 Chip into the programmer and Flash the chip with the Super CIC File. File can be downloaded here: http://sd2snes.de/files/supercic.zip (http://sd2snes.de/files/supercic.zip)
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| Step 12 :: The Pins |
![[step 12 photo]](98721/step12-3.jpg) Bend the pins outwards Then clip the pins Use double sided tape and put it on top of the CPU and put the Super CIC on top of the double sided tape.
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| Step 13 :: The Wires |
![[step 13 photo]](98721/step13-3.jpg) Pic 1: Solder a wire from Super CIC Pin 12 to PPU1 Pin 24 Pic 2: Solder a wire from Super CIC Pin 14 to SWRAM Pin 64 Pic 3: Solder the 10k Ohm Resistor to the pin 8 (where the old CIC used to be) and to SWRAM Pin 33
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| Step 14 :: The Wires Part 2 |
![[step 14 photo]](98721/step14-3.jpg) Pic 1: Solder a Wire from Super CIC Pin 1 to 4 on the same chip. Pic 2: Solder a wire from Super CIC Pin 1 to the CPU Pin 1 Pic 3: Solder a wire from Super CIC Pin 13 to the End Point of the Resistor
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| Step 15 :: The Wires Part 3 |
![[step 15 photo]](98721/step15-3.jpg) Pic 1: Sother a wire from Super CIC Pin 2 to S-CLK Pin 6 Pic 2: Sother a wire from Super CIC Pin 11 to Old CIC Pin 10 Pic 3: Sother a wire from Super CIC Pin 10 to Old CIC Pin 1
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| Step 16 :: The Wires Part 4 |
![[step 16 photo]](98721/step16-3.jpg) Pic 1: Solder a wire from Super CIC Pin 9 to Old CIC Pin 2 Pic 2: Solder a wire from Super CIC Pin 8 to Old CIC Pin 11 Pic 3: You've soldered most of the wires now, lets go to the LED Mod
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| Step 17 :: The LED Mod |
![[step 17 photo]](98721/step17-3.jpg) Plug out the controller ports and solder out the LED Light. NOTE: When the solder points have been desoldered, you can use the tweezers (https://www.ifixit.com/en-ca/products/tweezers) to pull out the led light Sother on the new LED Light with the middle pin on the left solder hole CAUTION: Do Not sother the middle pin on the LED Light to the right solder hole as it will then be stuck in only one color!
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| Step 18 :: Led Resistors |
![[step 18 photo]](98721/step18-3.jpg) Solder 2 wires on the left and right pins on the led light, green wire on the left pin and red wire on the right pin. After that you should put the wires into one heat shrink tube each, remember to heat the heat shrink tubes when its over the pins. Then you have to solder the 2k Resistor to the red wire and the 220 ohm Resistor to the green wire. Then the last thing you need to do is to solder a wire from Super CIC Pin 7 to Pin 14.
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| Step 19 :: The End |
![[step 19 photo]](98721/step19-3.jpg) You're Now Done! You just need to put your Super Nintendo back together and then you have a Region Free Switchless Super Nintendo! Green Light (PAL) Red Light (NTSC) [For American and Japanese Games] Orange Light (Auto)
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| Conclusion | To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
These screenshots have been taken by 2 videoes, one from Global Garage and Chips y Bits on YouTube! I made this guide since its a little easier to read a guide with pictures like this instead of watching a 30 min video |
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