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Super Famicom Teardown
DeviceNintendo Super Famicom SHVC-001
DifficultyModerate
TimeNo estimate
Steps8
This guide is by Arty Boomshaka on iFixit and is licensed under Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 3.0. ByteRot mirrors it for non-commercial preservation: formatting changed and photos resized for old browsers; full-size photos and the text are on the FTP in /DOCS/REPAIR. Original guide >>

In this guide we'll see how to get to the the console's main board.

Tools: Gamebit 4.5mm; Phillips #2 Screwdriver


Step 1 :: Opening the Case
[step 1 photo] [step 1 photo]
• Remove the 6 screws with a 4.5mm Gamebit screwdriver from the back of the unit.
• Turn the unit back up and lift the top cover. You can now admire :
• The ejecting mechanism.
• The sound chip. Present on early models, this is the main difference with the later hardware revisions of the console.
• The main board shield.
• The capacitors guard.

Step 2 :: Removing the Ejecting Mechanism
[step 2 photo]
• The mechanism is held back in place by a small spring. It's not too tense but be careful not to lose it. Also, note how it's placed for future reassembly.
• Remove the mechanism by slightly lifting the axle from the right and pulling it out.

Step 3 :: Removing the Power Switch
[step 3 photo] [step 3 photo]
• We'll need to remove a couple screws with a Phillips #2 screwdriver.
• It's plugged to the main board with a small plastic socket. Simply pull on it to set it apart.
• CAUTION: Don't pull on the wires to avoid damaging them. Pull on the plastic socket instead.

Step 4 :: Removing the Front Panel
[step 4 photo] [step 4 photo]
• The front panel is connected to the main board with a ribbon cable. Gently pull it out of its socket.
• The front panel can then be lifted out.

Step 5 :: Removing the Main Board's Shield
[step 5 photo]
• The shield is held by 6 Philips #2 screws.

Step 6 :: Removing the Sound Chip
[step 6 photo] [step 6 photo]
• The chip is held by 2 Philips #2 screws.
• It's then just held by the bus socket on the lower left side of the chip.
• Simply shimmy it out of the socket. You might need the help of a prying tool but don't put to much pressure on the cartridge port.

Step 7 :: Lifting the Main Board
[step 7 photo] [step 7 photo]
• The board is now only held by 3 Philips #2 screws.
• Lifting the main board reveals the lower shield that got scrapped in later hardware revisions of the console.

Step 8 :: Removing the Capacitors Guard
[step 8 photo] [step 8 photo]
• CAUTION: Capacitors can hold charge for a long time, be careful.
• First, remove the lateral screw (Philips #2, still).
• Turn the board around and unscrew the 4 last screws.

Credit
This guide is by Arty Boomshaka on iFixit and is licensed under Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 3.0. ByteRot mirrors it for non-commercial preservation: formatting changed and photos resized for old browsers; full-size photos and the text are on the FTP in /DOCS/REPAIR. Original guide >>
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