Get an account | | Accounts are free. Join #retro on irc.fxnet.org, identify with NickServ and type !req. | | [ how ] |
|
| IRC | #retro on irc.fxnet.org 6697 ssl · 6667 plain modern + vintage clients welcome | | [ vintage how-to ] |
|
| Some stats | | releases | 1,766 | | last 24h | +750 | | online | 404.1 GB | | library | 1.2 TB | | members | 0 | | updated | 2026-10-04 23:30 |
|
|
| | PAL Super Nintendo Teardown |
| Device | PAL Super Nintendo |
| Difficulty | Moderate |
| Time | No estimate |
| Steps | 8 |
This guide is by Arty Boomshaka on iFixit and is licensed under Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 3.0. ByteRot mirrors it for non-commercial preservation: formatting changed and photos resized for old browsers; full-size photos and the text are on the FTP in /DOCS/REPAIR. Original guide >>
This guide will show the teardown of the PAL Super Nintendo. You can also use this guide to learn how to replace the main PCB.
Tools: Gamebit 4.5mm; Phillips #2 Screwdriver |
|
| Step 1 :: Identifying the Model | ![[step 1 photo]](96506/step01-1.jpg) Consoles for the European, Asian and Australian market all had the same form factor, unlike the North American version. This guide should work for all versions except for American and pre-1995 japanese models.
|
|
| Step 2 :: Cracking the Case Open |
![[step 2 photo]](96506/step02-2.jpg) Remove the six screws located on the underside of the system with a 4.5mm Gamebit screwdriver. Turn the unit back up and lift the top cover. CAUTION: At the top is a capacitors shield. Make sure they're discharged before removing it. (Capacitors can hold charge for a long time, switching the power switch on while unplugged should discharge them) This is the front panel, requires a ribbon cable to be unplugged. This is part of the cartridge ejecting mechanism.
|
|
| Step 3 :: Removing the Ejecting Mechanism | ![[step 3 photo]](96506/step03-1.jpg) The mechanism is held back in place by a small spring. It's not too tense but be careful not to lose it. Also, note how it's placed for future reassembly. Remove the mechanism by slightly lifting the axle from the right and pulling it out.
|
|
| Step 4 :: Removing the Power Switch |
![[step 4 photo]](96506/step04-2.jpg) We'll need to remove a couple screws with a Phillips #2 screwdriver. It's plugged to the main board with a small plastic socket. Simply pull on it to set it apart. CAUTION: Don't pull on the wires to avoid damaging them. Pull on the plastic socket instead.
|
|
| Step 5 :: Removing the Front Panel |
![[step 5 photo]](96506/step05-2.jpg) The front panel is connected to the main board with a ribbon cable. Gently pull it out of its socket. The front panel can then be lifted out.
|
|
| Step 6 :: Removing the Main Board Shield |
![[step 6 photo]](96506/step06-3.jpg) The shield is held by 4 Philips #2 screws. Lift it by grabbing near the cartridge slot to dislodge the vertical prongs. This reveals the CPU, among other chips.
|
|
| Step 7 :: Lifting the Main Board |
![[step 7 photo]](96506/step07-3.jpg) At this point the main board is only held by 5 Philips #2 screws It can then be lifted by holding it by the caps shield.
|
|
| Step 8 :: Removing the Capacitor Guard |
![[step 8 photo]](96506/step08-3.jpg) CAUTION: Capacitors can hold charge for a long time, be careful. First, remove the Philips #2 screw on the side of the shield. Turn the board around and unscrew the 3 Philips #2 screws. Voilà!
|
|
|