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updated2026-10-04 23:30

 
Turbo Touch 360 by Triax for Super Nintendo Entertainment System Teardown
DeviceTurbo Touch 360 by Triax for Super Nintendo Entertainment System
DifficultyModerate
Time15 minutes
Steps4
This guide is by Damian on iFixit and is licensed under Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 3.0. ByteRot mirrors it for non-commercial preservation: formatting changed and photos resized for old browsers; full-size photos and the text are on the FTP in /DOCS/REPAIR. Original guide >>

This is a teardown of the Triax controller called the Turbo Touch 360 for the Super Nintendo Entertainment System video game console.

Tools: Philips 00 driver


Step 1 :: Remove the screws.
[step 1 photo]
• Use a Philips 00 screwdriver to remove the six screws on the back of the controller.
    • NOTE: The top two screws are smaller than the other four outside screws, and a narrow extension bit may be required to reach them.

Step 2 :: Open the controller.
[step 2 photo]
• Turn it right-side up and separate the back and front shell pieces.
• NOTE: The controller logic board is comprised of three main pieces:
    • NOTE: 1. a yellow circuit board interfacing the face buttons and turbo switches,
    • NOTE: 2. a green circuit board underneath handling all the logic from the face buttons and D-Pad and feeding it to the shift register to output to the Super Nintendo console, and
    • NOTE: 3. a plastic piece comprising of four metal regions, representing the contact points for the D-Pad.
• Use a Philips 00 screwdriver to remove the four screws securing the yellow circuit board to the controller. These screws are different than the ones holding the outer shell together.

Step 3 :: Separate the boards.
[step 3 photo] [step 3 photo] [step 3 photo]
• Lift the yellow circuit board by hand from left to right.
• CAUTION: BE CAREFUL! The circuit boards are connected by a series of wires, indicated by the green box in the first picture. Do NOT pull hard on the yellow circuit board when lifting it off the green circuit board. Simply lift it aside and out of the way.
• Use a Phillips 00 screwdriver to remove the two screws securing the green logic board to the back shell.
    • There is one more Phillips screw hidden under the left side of the D-Pad still holding the green circuit board in place. Use a narrow or angled extension to unscrew before removing the board from the controller.
• NOTE: The diamond metal board is secured to the green circuit board underneath by small, black, curled wires soldered underneath, and the main board is simply resting on four plastic posts in the corners.
    • REMINDER: Take care not to force the diamond square off of the circuit board, or this can compromise the D-Pad. There are four distinct locations on the green circuit board underneath that each region must be soldered to.

Step 4 :: Inspect the yellow circuit board.
[step 4 photo]
• NOTE: Several microchips and components are on the board:
    • (2x) CD4021BE - M 9215: These two chips are CMOS 8?stage static shift registers, responsible for handling parallel inputs from the controller and shift them out serially to the video game console.
    • SN74HC32N: quad 2?input OR?gate SN74HC02N: quad 2?input NOR?gate SN74HC04N: hex inverter SN74HC14N: hex Schmitt?trigger inverter M74HC75BI: Quad Bistable latch
    • There are four potentiometers lined from top to bottom. These adjust the turbo speed for each of the switches for the face buttons, and they can be adjusted with a precision Phillips-head screwdriver.

Credit
This guide is by Damian on iFixit and is licensed under Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 3.0. ByteRot mirrors it for non-commercial preservation: formatting changed and photos resized for old browsers; full-size photos and the text are on the FTP in /DOCS/REPAIR. Original guide >>
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