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updated2026-10-04 23:40

 
Nintendo 64 Power Supply Power Cable Replacement
DeviceNintendo 64 power supply
DifficultyModerate
Time30 - 45 minutes
Steps10
This guide is by Brandon Clausen on iFixit and is licensed under Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 3.0. ByteRot mirrors it for non-commercial preservation: formatting changed and photos resized for old browsers; full-size photos and the text are on the FTP in /DOCS/REPAIR. Original guide >>

How to replace the power cable on an N64 power supply.

Tools: Nintendo 64 security bit screwdriver; Lead-Free Solder; Soldering Iron; iFixit Precision Utility Knife; Small Chain Nose Pliers; Loctite Super Glue; cord with polarized plug; Coaxial Cable Crimper, Wire Stripper and Connectors; Power Drill


Step 1
[step 1 photo] [step 1 photo]
• Unscrew the 2 security screws on the corners of the case using a 4.5mm security bit driver.

Step 2
[step 2 photo] [step 2 photo]
• Remove the cover by gently prying from the side with the screws.
• NOTE: There are two clips that will let loose on the opposite side as you pry.
• NOTE: This will expose the circuit board needed for the repair.

Step 3
[step 3 photo]
• Remove the circuit board from the other half of the plastic case by pulling it straight out
• NOTE: There may be some adhesive holding it on to the plastic

Step 4
[step 4 photo] [step 4 photo]
• Remove the original power leads by melting the solder using a soldering gun.
• CAUTION: You will need to pull the wire from the backside but use caution to not touch any metallic parts as they will be hot.
• NOTE: If you do not know how to solder, read this Soldering Skills (https://www.ifixit.com/Device/Soldering) guide on ifixit.

Step 5
[step 5 photo] [step 5 photo] [step 5 photo]
• Clear the boot by pulling the copper wires out with pliers.
• NOTE: This will leave the wire sheathing which can then be cut flush with sharp knife.
• NOTE: Tip: Sand cut the end with fine grit sandpaper if desired.

Step 6
[step 6 photo] [step 6 photo]
• Use the drill to drill out the wire sheathing.
• Drill each hole twice.
    • First, use a 5/64th drill bit. Then, use a larger 1/8th drill bit to finish.
• NOTE: The holes should be clean and free of debris once complete.

Step 7
[step 7 photo] [step 7 photo] [step 7 photo]
• Feed the new cable through the boot .
• Glue it in place by applying glue to the wire (close to the desired location of the boot) and sliding the boot into place.
• NOTE: Be sure the exposed wire length is close to the original.

Step 8
[step 8 photo] [step 8 photo]
• Align the wires with their original positions on the circuit board.
• Looking at the component side of the board, the hot side is marked with an L for load and the neutral is marked with an N.
    • The neutral wire goes here, the hole closer to the center of the circuit board.
    • The hot wire goes here, closer to the outside.
• NOTE: The neutral wire can be identified by the wider prong on the plug end of the cord.

Step 9
[step 9 photo] [step 9 photo]
• Solder the new wires onto the circuit board.

Step 10
[step 10 photo] [step 10 photo]
• Use a flexible glue to put on the original adhesive.
• Insert the board, aligning the boot with the slot.

Conclusion
To reassemble your device, follow steps 1-3 in reverse order.

Credit
This guide is by Brandon Clausen on iFixit and is licensed under Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 3.0. ByteRot mirrors it for non-commercial preservation: formatting changed and photos resized for old browsers; full-size photos and the text are on the FTP in /DOCS/REPAIR. Original guide >>
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