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| | Nintendo 64 Power Supply Power Cable Replacement |
| Device | Nintendo 64 power supply |
| Difficulty | Moderate |
| Time | 30 - 45 minutes |
| Steps | 10 |
This guide is by Brandon Clausen on iFixit and is licensed under Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 3.0. ByteRot mirrors it for non-commercial preservation: formatting changed and photos resized for old browsers; full-size photos and the text are on the FTP in /DOCS/REPAIR. Original guide >>
How to replace the power cable on an N64 power supply.
Tools: Nintendo 64 security bit screwdriver; Lead-Free Solder; Soldering Iron; iFixit Precision Utility Knife; Small Chain Nose Pliers; Loctite Super Glue; cord with polarized plug; Coaxial Cable Crimper, Wire Stripper and Connectors; Power Drill |
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| Step 1 |
![[step 1 photo]](162342/step01-2.jpg) Unscrew the 2 security screws on the corners of the case using a 4.5mm security bit driver.
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| Step 2 |
![[step 2 photo]](162342/step02-2.jpg) Remove the cover by gently prying from the side with the screws. NOTE: There are two clips that will let loose on the opposite side as you pry. NOTE: This will expose the circuit board needed for the repair.
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| Step 3 | ![[step 3 photo]](162342/step03-1.jpg) Remove the circuit board from the other half of the plastic case by pulling it straight out NOTE: There may be some adhesive holding it on to the plastic
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| Step 4 |
![[step 4 photo]](162342/step04-2.jpg) Remove the original power leads by melting the solder using a soldering gun. CAUTION: You will need to pull the wire from the backside but use caution to not touch any metallic parts as they will be hot. NOTE: If you do not know how to solder, read this Soldering Skills (https://www.ifixit.com/Device/Soldering) guide on ifixit.
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| Step 5 |
![[step 5 photo]](162342/step05-3.jpg) Clear the boot by pulling the copper wires out with pliers. NOTE: This will leave the wire sheathing which can then be cut flush with sharp knife. NOTE: Tip: Sand cut the end with fine grit sandpaper if desired.
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| Step 6 |
![[step 6 photo]](162342/step06-2.jpg) Use the drill to drill out the wire sheathing. Drill each hole twice. First, use a 5/64th drill bit. Then, use a larger 1/8th drill bit to finish. NOTE: The holes should be clean and free of debris once complete.
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| Step 7 |
![[step 7 photo]](162342/step07-3.jpg) Feed the new cable through the boot . Glue it in place by applying glue to the wire (close to the desired location of the boot) and sliding the boot into place. NOTE: Be sure the exposed wire length is close to the original.
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| Step 8 |
![[step 8 photo]](162342/step08-2.jpg) Align the wires with their original positions on the circuit board. Looking at the component side of the board, the hot side is marked with an L for load and the neutral is marked with an N. The neutral wire goes here, the hole closer to the center of the circuit board. The hot wire goes here, closer to the outside. NOTE: The neutral wire can be identified by the wider prong on the plug end of the cord.
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| Step 9 |
![[step 9 photo]](162342/step09-2.jpg) Solder the new wires onto the circuit board.
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| Step 10 |
![[step 10 photo]](162342/step10-2.jpg) Use a flexible glue to put on the original adhesive. Insert the board, aligning the boot with the slot.
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| Conclusion | | To reassemble your device, follow steps 1-3 in reverse order. |
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