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| Some stats | | releases | 1,766 | | last 24h | +750 | | online | 404.1 GB | | library | 1.2 TB | | members | 0 | | updated | 2026-10-04 23:40 |
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| | Macintosh Classic II Back Cover Removal |
| Device | Macintosh Classic II |
| Difficulty | Moderate |
| Time | 10 - 20 minutes |
| Steps | 5 |
This guide is by oldturkey03 on iFixit and is licensed under Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 3.0. ByteRot mirrors it for non-commercial preservation: formatting changed and photos resized for old browsers; full-size photos and the text are on the FTP in /DOCS/REPAIR. Original guide >>
I have had this computer for years but just never got around to working on it until now. There was a general question about the possibility of connecting a SSD to this computer. For now, this one will have to get taken apart, cleaned, and possibly recapped. After that we a re going to see if the SCSCI hard drive can be replaced by an SSD.
Tools: T15 Torx Screwdriver |
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| Step 1 |
![[step 1 photo]](157866/step01-3.jpg) Here is one of the vintage computers in my possession. It is a Macintosh Classic II M4150. Apple considers this obsolete and " information about these products is no longer updated as of 9/1/98 " On powering it up, It originally greeted me with a checkerboard pattern that quickly converted into this pattern. The checkerboard pattern is/was commonly caused by bad Ram memory. Considering the age of this computer, leaking capacitors are a strong possibility. Time to check. CAUTION: This computer contains a CRT. That means there are some high voltages involved when working on this. Use proper CRT safety while working on it. The cover is held in place by four (4) T-15 screws. Two (2) on the bottom
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| Step 2 |
![[step 2 photo]](157866/step02-3.jpg) and two (2) under the top (handle) The bottom ones are easy to remove The top ones are a bit of a challenge due to the depth of the holes.
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| Step 3 |
![[step 3 photo]](157866/step03-3.jpg) There was just not enough room to get a good grip on the driver. Luckily this iFixit driver has a hole on the top part. I used a tool to gain some mechanical advantage. While applying downward pressure on the driver, turn the tool to the left to loosen the screw Once loosened, the iFixit extension that came with my set, works perfectly to remove the screw,
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| Step 4 |
![[step 4 photo]](157866/step04-3.jpg) Here are the four (4) screws. The two bottom screws are M4X15mm The top screws are those typical found in plastic to sheet metal joints. With the screws removed the cover will slide off. BEst practice is to lay it down and pull the case straight up. It may take some force due to the tight fit and years of storage etc.
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| Step 5 |
![[step 5 photo]](157866/step05-3.jpg) Here is what the inside looks like. CAUTION: Remember the High Voltage. Do not touch anything with bare hands etc. Right now it's look but don't touch Power supply (Sweep Board) Flyback Transformer Video card CRT SCSI Hard drive Hard drive on top with the Floppy drive on the bottom
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| Conclusion | | To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order. |
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