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updated2026-10-04 23:30

 
PlayStation 2 Teardown
DevicePlayStation 2
DifficultyModerate
TimeNo estimate
Steps25
This guide is by Pollux on iFixit and is licensed under Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 3.0. ByteRot mirrors it for non-commercial preservation: formatting changed and photos resized for old browsers; full-size photos and the text are on the FTP in /DOCS/REPAIR. Original guide >>

First, I would like to apologize for my poor English, I am from Brazil, but I love this site, especially because I have loved to disassemble electronic things since I was a kid. My mother always freaks out, but I always assemble everything back. Sometimes I even fix some things.

I'm writing this teardown to try to win the PSP GO or the PS3 slim, so please look with care, it was made with care. (editor's note: WOOOOW This article is outdated. I hope you won your PSP GO or PS3 Slim.

In this teardown, I will show how to disassemble a Sony Playstation 2. I was already planning to disassemble it to clean it and fix a small issue.

Later in the repair guide, I will show how to fix a small problem I had. I sent it to a technician because the rumble effect was no longer working. He says that there was a problem in the motherboard and he needs to change it entirely, but the model is a SCPH 39001. It's an old model. In fact, it was one of the first in the market. He says that the price to fix it was expensive and that it's better to buy a PS2 Slim to replace mine. I remember when a bought my PS2. It cost more than R$800, almost US$400. I decided to stay with it anyway, and despite the problem, I even bought an ethernet adapter to continue playing it.

Later, talking with some friends, I found out that there is a fuse that controls the rumble effect and all that I needed to do was change it. I found out that the fuses in the mainboard are very small and fixed in the main board. It's almost impossible to change them. The same friend gave me a tip that I can use a glass fuse and take the internal wire to use in the main board. I decided to try it and it works perfectly.

So, let's start the teardown. Enjoy!

Tools: 6-in-1 Screwdriver; Phillips #0 Screwdriver; Tweezers; Small crosshead Screwdriver; Flathead 3/32" or 2.5 mm Screwdriver


Step 1
[step 1 photo] [step 1 photo] [step 1 photo]
• Here we have the system console fully assembled.
• The USB Ports.
• The S400 ports
• The Optical Drive
• The reset button
• The eject button

Step 2 :: What You'll Need
[step 2 photo] [step 2 photo]
• These are the only tools that we will need. 4 screwdrivers and a tweezer.
• In the next photo we can see the console, the joystick, the wires and a memory card.

Step 3 :: The Back Of The Playstation 2
[step 3 photo] [step 3 photo]
• In the Back, in this case we have a Ethernet adapter, to play online and to use with a Hdd.
• And the cooler,
• The power switch
• The AC in.
• The Av out
• And the digital output (optical)

Step 4 :: Ethernet Adapter Removal
[step 4 photo] [step 4 photo] [step 4 photo]
• Lets start the teardown. At first we use a Flathead screwdriver to remove the ethernet adapter.
• Remove these 2 screws with a Flathead screwdriver.
• And is quite simple to pull.
• (Please note that not all PS2s come with a ethernet adapter or hard drive installed.)

Step 5 :: Hard Drive Bay
[step 5 photo]
• This is the expansion bay, where the hard drive goes.

Step 6 :: Removing Screw Protection
[step 6 photo] [step 6 photo]
• Turn the console upside down.
• Using a small Flathead screwdriver, remove the screw protections. In this model, we have 8 of them.

Step 7 :: Removing Screws
[step 7 photo] [step 7 photo] [step 7 photo]
• Under the protection, suprise! a screw!
• Remove all eight (8) screws with your Philips "0" screwdriver.
• Yes, hard work!

Step 8 :: Taking Off The Top Cover
[step 8 photo] [step 8 photo]
• Put the console in the normal horizontal position, and pull the top cover from back to front.

Step 9 :: Ribbon Cable Connected To The Top Case
[step 9 photo] [step 9 photo] [step 9 photo]
• CAUTION: This model has a flat cable to the reset and eject button. Take extreme caution to not destroy it.
• Remove the button structure just pulling with a small Flathead screwdriver.

Step 10 :: Destruction Of The Ribbon Cable
[step 10 photo]
• The button structure comes out of the case. It has some tape to prevent a new destruction. Yes, I already destroyed this flat cable.

Step 11 :: Controller Port Removal
[step 11 photo] [step 11 photo] [step 11 photo]
• Remove the two screws with a Philips "0" screwdriver to deatach the controller port.

Step 12 :: Main Power Switch Removal
[step 12 photo] [step 12 photo]
• Here we remove the screws from the cooler and the main power switch

Step 13 :: Removing The Fan
[step 13 photo] [step 13 photo]
• Pull the fan up carefully so you don't break the wire.
• Pull up the fan mount.

Step 14
[step 14 photo] [step 14 photo]
• The power cable goes further inside the case. It's better to remove it in a future step.
• The fan wire also goes more inside the case. Take extreme care not to destroy it because it is very small.

Step 15 :: Flipping The Console Over
[step 15 photo] [step 15 photo] [step 15 photo]
• CAUTION: Lets turn the console upside down again, with caution because the pieces are locked, and just in the next step we can remove them.

Step 16 :: Removing The Bottom Case
[step 16 photo] [step 16 photo]
• Lets remove the bottom case.

Step 17 :: Power Supply (PSU) Removal
[step 17 photo] [step 17 photo] [step 17 photo]
• This is the power source board. remove the 4 screws where I marked in blue.

Step 18 :: PSU Pins
[step 18 photo] [step 18 photo] [step 18 photo]
• Looking from the back, pull up the board, releasing from the pins of the main board.
• Finally you can remove the power switch.
• And this is the power source board.
• CAUTION: When working on the power supply, be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply. Only handle the board by the edges.

Step 19
[step 19 photo] [step 19 photo] [step 19 photo]
• Now we remove the expansion bay grid.
• CAUTION: And now is the time to remove the fan wire from the main board, using a precision tweezer. But.. I can't, it is simply stuck. I already removed this ealier, but now is harder, so I will try later, in the end of the teardown.

Step 20
[step 20 photo] [step 20 photo] [step 20 photo]
• Remove the isolation cover from the metal case.
• Remove the small screws using a thin crosshead screwdriver.
• And release the metal case from the DVD player, as indicated, using a small flat screwdriver

Step 21
[step 21 photo] [step 21 photo] [step 21 photo]
• Now you can remove the metal case and find the main board.
• Look, the flat cables! Now is the time to remove them. Be gentle please.

Step 22
[step 22 photo] [step 22 photo] [step 22 photo]
• There are 2 more and the DVD player is free.

Step 23
[step 23 photo] [step 23 photo]
• Now you can turn upside down again, and remove the metal protection.
• This is the other side of the main board.

Step 24
[step 24 photo] [step 24 photo] [step 24 photo]
• Well, the try to remove the cooler wire was a total failure.
• The plug is made to deatach, but it is old. The plug had turned into one piece, and broke the soldering.
• Well, I'll find a way to fix it. I always do =)

Step 25
[step 25 photo]
• This is the end of the teardown.
• From top, from the left: Ethernet adapter, Ps2 case, Hdd, Cooler, Cooler grid, bottom metal cover protection, screws protectors, screws, Controller board, Power swtich, Power source board, Plastic cover to isolate the power source board, top metal cover, DVD Drive, Expansion Bay cover, main board, reset/eject structure.

Credit
This guide is by Pollux on iFixit and is licensed under Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 3.0. ByteRot mirrors it for non-commercial preservation: formatting changed and photos resized for old browsers; full-size photos and the text are on the FTP in /DOCS/REPAIR. Original guide >>
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